20th Anniversary Skimboarding Season: Session #01
May 26, 2007 · Print This Article
That is what I thought as I sat upon my trusty bamboo mat after a surprisingly hardcore 90-minute skimboarding session this afternoon. … As always I began by walking through Shinjuku station like a Hero, on my way to platform #1 to catch the 2pm Shonan Shinjuku Tokaido line express train. … I even was able to get a seat right from there, which is quite rare.
…It was good to lay eyes on all the familiar sights of Chigasaki station and the long street leading to the Sea. A few new buildings went up since I last walked it in November, and to my horror, instead of seeing Very, Very Strawberry finally open for business again, the whole restaurant, building and all, was gone!
…I kind of intended to go sans wetsuit and just Man-up as usual, but the water was still very arctic, and I saw no reason to be uncomfortable the whole afternoon.
…I only expected to maybe get an hour session in, just get back a little rhythm to start the season off. And with the conditions not looking good, I thought I’d be lucky to do even that. … When I spotted a wave I wanted to ride, I would start my run, and then once seeing where exactly I wanted to drop my board I’d burst forth with such acceleration I felt it was not my legs carrying me, but like speed I’d have only in a dream. Such is the ecstasy I felt upon returning to the Sea, that I could summon speed I can’t remember having for a long time.
…This allowed me to whip across waves on the front side, hitting them with great velocity and fluidity, rocketing back toward the shore after ripping a huge flair. … I got into a rhythm where I was skimboarding not just for the heck of it, but rather to save the world. I thought if I could just run fast enough, time it just right, hit the incoming wave in enough harmony, that it could save the world. … I got surprisingly close, and might have, if not for having to suffer a huge disturbance in the middle of my session from a damned steam shovel!
…It was great to be there with other surfers, wind surfers, and even the spongers. … I even had a great experience when I first got to the beach going into the local surf shop to pick up a tide chart. … I was even able to communicate to her this was my 20th year of skimboarding, which made her say wow.